Eventually we found a little place in Playa Pelada called Seekretspot, it was also an internet cafĂ© and was run by a very friendly French guy who made you feel right at home, opening his kitchen to us and inviting us to surf with him in the morning. We met him out at the river mouth in the morning The waves were head high (or more), peeling left with decent shape and together with Stefan and his 2 friends we were the first to get in the water I sat on the shoulder for set after set trying to get my nerve up. There was an offshore breeze which is great for the shape of the wave, but also adds to the intimidating nature of the wave by sending spray up and over the backside of the wave as it is forming. Finally after a little encouragement from the guys, I moved into the sweet spot and catch the first wave I paddled for. John, although a little tentative to start, had quickly moved over to the “spot“ and enjoyed some great waves. The best thing about this break was that the lack of a crowd - it was like our private break courtesy of Stefan.
Ok, by now you may be wondering how come there are no pictures of us actually surfing, or for that matter any pictures of the surf itself. Well, first that would require one of us to stay on the shore while the other was out having fun - neither of us are that self-less. Second, unfortunately petty thief is a bit of an issue here. We leave nothing in the car except maybe a jar of peanut butter & jelly (PB&J sandwiches are life savers!) Likewise its recommended to take nothing to the beach that you value - just about anything left unattended has a chance of disappearing...camera, sunglasses, even flip-flops. So ... we are left with undocumented memories and stories that can grow grander with time uninhibited by pictures reflecting reality.