D r e a m B i g - - L i v e L a r g e

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Island Living - Ko Tao, Thailand


AirAsia flight 3703 Hanoi to Bangkok, public bus no 51 to Victory Monument, Skytrain to stop no 3 and a short walk back to the Atlanta Hotel where we had left some of our things almost 6 weeks ago for an overnight pit stop before heading south. Our bag was still there so we decided to leave behind the souvenirs we bought in Vietnam as well as our warm clothes to lighten our load.



The next day we boarded a night train to Champhun. We were to arrive at 4 am but we were delayed 2 hours before leaving the station and somehow arrived 5 hours late - therefore missing our boat to Ko Tao. They shuttled us to the pier for the afternoon boat. The catamaran held over 200 people and every seat was full. Unknowingly we were arriving at the busiest time of the month on Ko Tao - right after the full moon party on neighboring Ko Pha Ngan. Ko Tao is a diver"s paradise. Warm clear waters, abundant sea life, and dozens of dive spots. The dive shops probably outnumber the accommodations, although it seems most dive shops also have their own bungalows and restaurant. We avoided all the touts with rooms when we got off the boat as we hoped to hook up with our friend Deb who had been living on the island for a year and working as a dive master, soon to be instructor. When we did't hear from her (email not as reliable as you hope) we started off down the beach to find a place for the night. We asked at just about every place we passed, same response "full" This was looking bleak and the sun would be setting soon and here we are still trudging along with our packs in search of a place to sleep. The only thing we found was a room for 2500 baht or 75 dollars (for a room that was probably worth a third of that) and a room for 1500 baht where she admitted it normally went for 500! Since our budget was up to 800 this was not looking good. We could sleep on the beach but we would get eaten alive by sand fleas. Finally, all the way back at the pier where we started after having walked the entire length of both main towns, Mad Haad and Sairee, we found a relatively new place for 1500. Still well over our budget but at least we were getting what we paid for. It was a very nice place, spotless and I could swear they were 400 thread count sheets! John had gone out to try to call Deb and actually ran into her. She worked at Crystal Dive Shop right behind where we spent the night and where we had had lunch the day before. What were the odds?

We spent the next morning looking for a new more affordable place and found the most ideal location. Jansom Bay Bungalows - 700 baht for an oceanfront bungalow - our own semi-private cove with a small sandy beach.

Granted it was very basic with only cold water and a fan but it was our little slice of paradise. Just far enough from town to be private and quiet but close enough to walk into town for dinner or to hook up with Deb. Finally we could start enjoying the island!


We went over to the private neighboring beach at the swanky Charm Cairee Villas (we get in free with our room key) and the fish were so abundant you didn't even need a mask or snorkel. They came right to the beach to greet you! Beautiful.