As we board the long-tail boat heading for Ao Nang we take one last glance back to Ton Sai beach, a muddy rocky bay not much to write home about for sheer beauty but a place we felt right at home at. Sometimes you find places where you just feel like you fit in. Krabi was that way for me. Comparatively speaking I am probably one of the less skillful climbers around here but there is something inclusionary about this climbing crowd, at least those we met. You walk up to a route and you instantly have something in common with those around you. At the busier spots (which happens to be where we end up since that is where the easier climbs are) there is a laid back friendly atmosphere. No one seems to anxious to rush you off a climb even though people are lining up to get on the route next. There are always several different languages being spoken, Thai, German, French, English - but somehow everyone seems to understand each other. Its funny to hear the guides yelling up instructions in several languages, followed by a laugh and a side conversation with the other guides in Thai (and the visual of your guide taking a hit off a joint while belaying you might raise concerns elsewhere but both John and I agreed that we were very confident in the guide's skills and attention level and felt very "safe" while climbing). In the evening the crowd seems less interested in finding a big raging party and more likely to congregate at a few low key restaurants, lounging at the beach bar practicing their slackline skills, or watching a movie at one of the restaurants.So it is with mixed emotions that we move on to Bali. Although I am excited to get back on a surfboard the idea of a few days in Kuta, Bali - known for its raging discos and all night parties is a bit overwhelming.
We fly from Krabi to Kuala Lumpar, Maylasia where we have to go through customs and immigration before immediately re-entering the airport to head to Bali. We booked flights on AirAsia - the Asian version of Southwest Airlnes - and they only do point A to point B tickets. So we bought 2 back-to-back tickets with a short 2 hour break between flights. Of course this method of booking has sent up a red flag with our credit card which now has a hold on it - great! Of course, the website just says to call to resolve - as if everyone has a phone attached to their hip. Ok, most people do. But as we are phone-less this creates a problem. One we will have to solve later.
Luckily, even though Kuala Lumpar is a big airport everything goes smoothly and we clear customs, collect our bags, exit the airport, re-enter the airport and hop on our next flight to Denpasar (all the while thankful that we both dropped some weight from our packs when we were last in Bangkok). The arrival is like all the rest, your are immediately faced with a barrage of taxi drivers surrounding the exit to the airport. We have learned that the best course is to head out of the airport, bus station etc and the further you walk away the lower the price. Also if you mess about with your bags and such for awhile such that most of the tourists are gone, the price will likely become negotiable as you may be their only likely fare until the next plane arrives. We still have not mastered the art of hard negotiation. We have a tendency of thinking in dollars and it is just hard to squabble over what equates to a dollar. But we know it must be done, otherwise you are labeled a stupid tourist and dollars do add up. Anyway, they really don't expect the first price they throw out. The hard part is determining if it is double the "real" price or just a 20 percent increase. Someone could write a book on that topic alone for every country here; we would have bought it!
We grab a taxi and head to Kuta. It is a frustrating search for an available room within our price range and the fact that it is dark and getting late doesn't make it easier. We settle, out of necessity, on the Sari Bali which had beautiful grounds and a pool. But, morning light would show how desperately dirty the room was - with a good coating of dust and grim on the lamp shade as a testament of just how long it had been since the room had a spring cleaning. So off to hunt for a new room is first on the agenda in the morning. Kendin's II right next door - but leagues above. Clean, pleasant and a small pool to boot.
With a clean room awaiting us for the night we head to the beach to check out the surf. The waves are a bit intimidating, but the beach is inviting, as we stroll down the beach we are frequently approached by locals who over you a spot on their beachchairs - apparently for no charge. Of course they also rent surfboards and sell drinks and hope you will partake in both. We kindly tell them we are just walking the beach, no worries they are happy to just talk a bit, asking where you are from, how long will you stay and giving their opinion on the best surf spot along the beach. It is a beach break and the surf is almost as crowded as your typical Southern California break. Dispersed between all the beginners are the hot shot locals ripping it up and providing an impressive exhibition. Ahh, if only I had started surfing years ago when I first moved to Cali.
On the way to the beach we had stopped by a hole-in-the-wall surf shop a few doors down from our guesthouse. Turns out they were offering a smoking price based on what others along the way wanted so we picked up 2 boards and, with mild trepidation on my part, headed for the beach. By the time we got there the surf had mellowed and it was a good introduction to Bali surf-with out the butt kicking. Tomorrow we will rent a car and head up the west coast of the island.
