The alarm goes off at 6 a.m., John rolls out of bed, throws on some shorts and walks down the driveway some 75 yards from our little surf pad (very, very basic but its all about location, location, location) to check the surf. We can practically see the break from our veranda but you really need to get closer to take it all in. He takes a seat on a bench or rock and watches for awhile. Surfing involves more than just catching a wave, it requires patience, thoughtful interpretation of the waves, how are they breaking, how many seconds between waves, how long between sets, is the tide coming in or going out, how shallow is it and where were those rocks we saw yesterday at low tide? All serious business. Other surfers come and go, some come back with their boards and paddle out. Then John reports back - I'm still in bed, no need for 2 to go on recon - clean, long lefts, about head high. We both go back out to watch some more. John decides the time is right and heads out late morning. The surf is looking intimidating to me and as I continue to procrastinate the swell builds as the tide comes in. John's timing is not so good and he gets hammered in the impact zone, before finally making it out. Then a big set comes and wipes him out again. (All caught on video.) Alright I'm thinking of spending the day at the pool at least until the tide goes out a little. But I did come here to surf - what's a little battering? Its just water right? Later that day I muster up the courage to paddle out - albeit from the beach side - a much longer paddle and working against the current, but clear of rocks. The waves are a bit fast and steep for me and my 8 foot board but at least I made it out without getting crushed. Lefts should be easy for me as I ride goofy footed but I only ride rights at home so I'm having trouble adjusting but its sunny, warm, and a beautiful day what more could you ask for?
Day 2 is more of the same. Our day revolves around the surf and eating. We are staying in the economy wing of a nice hotel (we think they were originally built as staff rooms and now provide surfer style accomodations) which means the food is overpriced so we eat every mealup the street at this great little guesthouse and restaurant. The crowd there is very friendly, both locals, staff and other surfers, including those staying in the econ wing at our place who seem to follow the same m.o. as us, and we all seem to gather for meals to recount our daily surf sessions - great waves caught, big wipe outs, and other surf stories. This is another place like Krabi where we just feel at home. We could easily kick back here for several weeks. Unfortunately the plan is to spend about 5 days here before traveling north to see more of the island.
The following day the swell starts to die off and we actually go in search of bigger surf - but we don't find much. Later that day though it picks up a little and we decide to try this little right break a short walk from our place. Its just John and I and the surf is small, but it is just surreal - the sun sets behind us reflecting shades of orange across the horizon, the water is tropical warm (although John is convinced that the rivermouth we are near is flowing sewage - I chose to not look very closely and just look out to sea), and we have the waves all to ourselves - absolutely amazing!
