D r e a m B i g - - L i v e L a r g e

Friday, July 24, 2009

Leon - Art, Religion and Revolutionary History


Interestingly we start the journey to Leon further northwest by taking a bus east? Did we miss something? Ahh, it becomes clear as our minibus flags down a bus headed for Leon from the highway (as we are barreling down the road) and we grab our bags, run across the highway and continue our journey - in the correct direction - to Leon.


Leon was the nation's capital from the colonial period until 1857 when Managua became the capital. A Sandanista stronghold, during revolutionary times almost the entire city fought against Somoza. Now more of a university town Leon remains politically progressive. Its revolutionary history is vividly showcased by the numerous murals still found through-out the city - although many are a bit faded.


One of my favorites was the Sandino stepping on the head of Uncle Sam (benefactor of the Somoza regime).  Another depicts the story of the local people from happy times to their struggle and bloodshed against Somoza and the US, and back to happy times under the current regime.


Here's another favorite located on a busy street, street vendors selling fried somethings almost around the clock. 

As we entered town we realize there is a celebration going on in honor of certain heroes and martires of the revolution and more recent times. Alongside the murals, banners adorn the streets. Then we notice a small crowd forming along the street. Its unclear why. We wait ... and shortly thereafter we see the crowd start clapping and cheering. We head out to the street to see what is going on and here come a bunch of guys in spandex on roadbikes.

Its a race through the streets of Leon! Ok as we we see them round the corner again we realize it is more of a circuit race of several laps and the strategy is interesting - in front of the crowd which seems to have only formed on one street, the riders go all out, jockeying for position, but as they hit the bend in the road - almost out of view of the crowd - they let up to a more casual pace. The crowd intensifies and then it is over. We couldn't quite make out the winner since as soon as it was over the riders disapated. I think there may have been a podium celebration later in the day.