Illiniza Norte - 5126m (16,818 feet)

La Lloviza is a comfy hostal run by a very friendly family in the town of El Chaupi. We have a delicious meal - a traditional Ecuadorian meal - meat (or chicken in my case) with lentils and rice known as menestra. We have an early start tomorrow so we are in bed at 8:30 wrapped in layers of wool blankets. Hopefully I won't have too many middle of the night bathroom calls.

5 am comes before you know it and it is hard to drag ourselves from the warmth of our bed. Our goal is to start the hike by 7 am so its breakfast and pack the daypack. At 10 to 7 we are at the parking spot ready to start our day. - surprisingly we are on schedule. We are again blessed with a clear sunny day with only a little wind as we start out up the road which then meets the trail. The trail is smoother than yesterday for which I am thankful. We continue along for over an hour at a good pace and only gradual incline.

But soon we can see where we are headed and it is a scree field up the mountain. It has been dry for a long time so the scree is loose and dry - Jose is unable to cut steps for us so it is each man to their own to trudge along. For a while the trail traverses across the mountain then it starts a more direct angle up. Its a little like 2 steps forward and one slide back. I am thinking to myself - why are we doing this? My legs are a little sore but the downhill is going to be painful and we still have a ways to go. Maybe I should stick to surfing...

But my thoughts remain unspoken and we keep going. My pace has slowed and I need to stop to catch my breath every few steps. We head over to a rocky outcropping and head up along the edge using the rocks for balance.

The winds have picked up and we are occasionally caught off guard and lose our balance. I try not to look down the mountain as a slip in the scree could send you down quite a way. Maybe not life threatening but who wants to climb back up again.

The rocky section ends and we are back in the deep scree but the rocky top section is now in sight. It is so windy that I have assumed we will not go to the very top as it requires bouldering with a few exposed sections.

We make it to the ridge and seek shelter around the other side.  Protected from the wind, we sit behind some rocks and enjoy our lunch. Another guide and his client make their way down from the very top. They stop to talk. Jose knows the guide. It then occurs to me that nothwithstanding the wind we will be able to summit.  Cool!

We head off to the final rocky summit, scrambling up the ridgeline.

When we reach the base of the rocky section, Jose has us rope up alpine style. I am in the middle. The idea is to keep the rope taunt so if someone falls the others stop the fall. Although both John and I are thinking it, neither of us ask Jose what we are to do if he falls. He has the majority of the rope coiled around his shoulder. I decide that based on his vast experience (which we had discovered while sitting around the fire last night included over 16 years of mountaineering - 3 summits of Everest and 14 years working with Alpine Ascents) if we needed to know he would have told us.

Besides I think the rope is just a precaution and a way for us to get use to it for Cotopaxi since it doesn't really seem that exposed and but for the gusts of wind we would have felt just fine - except in one little spot - without a rope at all. Anyway - I almost forgot the cold and wind - the climb up the rocky section was so much fun, challenging but not too scary.

We made it to the top which is marked by an iron cross - so of course we took the obligatory photos...

plus a few more and then turned around for the downclimb. 

The clouds had been steadily rolling in, but they cleared only for a shutter or two and revealed this little green lake on the other side of the peak.

The downclimb was a little more challenging.

As long as you didn't look straight down, it really wasn't that bad.

Before we knew it we were heading down the scree field trying to find the deepest sections so you could "moonwalk" down with a little speed - think running downhill in powdery snow - except every once in a while you hit a shallow or rocky spot and your momentum is altered -

sometimes sending you for a little slide on your bum with a "Pigpen" style cloud of dust behind you. I think John caught my fall on video. We got down quicker than I expected but it was still tedious and my knees and back are never happy with steep downhills.

Overall, including lunch it was a 9 hour day, tiring but a beautiful day and a beautiful climb.

We spent one more night at La Lloviza where I had a scalding hot shower - so much so that I had to get John's attention to go get the owner as I couldn't stand the heat (only one knob so you couldn't control temperature). I was probably the first to complain of too hot water. The owner arrived with a screwdriver so I could force some cold water into the shower. Another 3 course dinner and we were in bed before 9 pm - toasty warm and snuggled up with about 3 wool blankets - wind whipping at the windows but we slept like babies.

Peak No. 2 - Pasochoa Volcano Reserve (4200m)

We are greeted bright and early by our guide, Jose Luis Peralvo, and we quickly load our gear into his car and head off to the trailhead for Pasochoa Volcano Reserve about a 45 minute drive outside of Quito.  Hiring a guide is always a bit of a toss of the dice, of course you can screen for the most important stuff- experience, safety records, etc., but you never know if your personalities will mesh.  Our lucky stars were shining when we hired Jose.  From our initial "hello" we liked him, very professional, organized, ready to get started, but also friendly and talkative.  Later I would find out that Jose was also much more qualified than we had even hoped, having guided people on Aconcagua (South America's highest peak) and other peaks, including 3 summits of Mount Everest!  I was impressed and feeling comfortable that we were in good hands for the next several days.  We were taking the hydroelectric trail, meaning we started at the hydroelectric plant where Jose parked his car and said his "holas" to the caretaker who would keep an eye on the car. The trail starts off on a dirt road for a short bit but eventually leads to a gated pasture with some gazing bulls.   

Jose exchanges a little friendly conversation with the farmer at the gate, pays our entrance fee and we continue on after the obligatory inspection by the watch dog. The trail slowly gains altitude as it traverses through the paramo.   The volcanic soil in this area has resulted in a very uneven terrain, not advantageous for farming and thus the area become a reserve.  Although somewhat lush in appearance, the ground is comprised of tuffs of grass which make for interesting walking - although my ankles are less than excited. 

We had heard this was a popular trek, but the trail we are on seems unused and we see only a few other people all day.  As the peak comes into view the trail gets steeper with its own version of a stairmaster kicking into play.  My legs are starting to burn ...

But before you know it we reach the top.

What a fantastic view!  

The top is 4200 meters (13,780 feet) but this peak was harder than Pinchicha (15,750 feet) as it was steeper and less even terrain. 

For the better acclimatization we need to stay at the peak for an hour or so before heading back down to thicker oxygen so we find a comfortable spot and just relax.  The skies are clear and we have a great view of Volcano Cotopaxi while we eat of delicious lunch of ham, cheese, lettuce and tomato sandwiches along with a variety of power bar type of snacks.  Jose had prepared us lunch bags for each day with more than enough food.  Thanks Jose!  The weather is so perfect today - we hope our summit day on Cotopaxi will be as good. 

 Now the fun part - I'm joking. I hate the downhill. Its hard on your joints, especially your knees and there is nothing you can do about it. Luckily we brought our hiking poles which help a little. 3 hours up and 2 hours down.  Back to the car and now off to our hostel in the village of El Chaupi, closer to the base of our next challenge - Illiniza Norte at 512m (16,817 feet)Now its off to the La Llovinza. Hostal which is closer to the base of  Illiniza, our climb for tomorrow.

TelefriQo and Rucu Pinchica

Acclimatization Day 1 - I really had hoped to go do the Quilitoa Loop which is a trek from hostal to hostal between 2800 and 3600 meters including a stop at a beautiful volcanic crater lake, but Andres at Compania de Guias (CdG) said the weather may not hold and it was best to start the trek to Cotopaxi asap. So we opted for a day hike out of Quito which starts with a ride up the telefriQo or cable car.

This place has an amusement park next to the parking lot and apparently is quite the happening family spot on the weekends. Luckily it is Wednesday and the place is dead. The telefriQo takes you from 2800m to 4100m or about 9,100 feet to 13,450 feet. From there you can follow a walking path to a mirador or look-out spot. Of course the whole area is a lookout spot with fantastic views of the sprawling city of Quito below and the mountain ranges bordering the city. But I'm a bit on edge after the shooting last night and I'm totally paranoid about walking anywhere secluded or isolated. I asked the ticket clerk if the trail was safe. She said yes of course. Then we saw a few mountain bikers and John went over to talk to them about the trails. It was a German guy who was on the Ecuador race team and he was guiding a couple of German tourists. The trail looked great, very technical in spots and there were some drops and jumps. But it was unclear where to rent good bikes - they had brought their own. Before heading down the trail I asked again about the safety of the trail and the guide said it was very safe.

As we continued on the trail we saw several policemen with dogs. We stopped to talk to one briefly. They were doing exercises with the dogs. Someone had walked ahead and stashed dynamite along the trail and now the dogs were suppose to find it. (Hopefully before some unsuspecting hiker!). Again I ask about the trail - third confirmation on safety. Ok - now I can stop dragging my feet.

The trail is easy to follow, well worn and gradually climbing up to 4800m or 15,750 feet. We stop about 2 hours up and have a snack - tuna in a can - then push forward.

The wild flowers are blooming and the sun is out.  That is until we turn the bend and the wind attacks.  After about 3 hours climbing I stop before the final summit section as there is a big scree field and I decide to save my knees. (From the downhill that is).

John trudges ahead making it to the top in another 30 minutes after taking a little side detour (false summit). The wind has picked up and I am freezing waiting for John to come back down. The fog has starting to roll in at the top so I have lost sight of him. I am jogging in place to try to stay warm. I tried finding a sheltered spot but the wind is gusty and coming from several directions. I've got to move down to find a sheltered spot. I head down the trail only about 5 or 10 minutes and then wait - still no John. I head back up to where I was and see him just starting down and there is another guy with him. Cool they will catch up and off I go.

Once you make the traverse to the other side of the mountain the wind mellows and the sun is shinning. The clouds even dissipate enough to show us glimpses of Cayambe and Cotopaxi off in the distance. Jay, who John met at the top, joins us the rest of the way down. We jump in the tram and reach the base of the mountain only to find out there are university demonstrations going on and no cabbie wants to take us back. Looks like we are walking! Luckily Jay walked there and had a map. Unfortunately I am so done for the day the last thing I wanted to do was keep walking for another 1 - 2 hours - oh and it will be dark soon so my nervous level is going up. We make it back shortly before 6 pm, all the while I'm constantly looking over my shoulder. I'll be happy when we get to the mountains in a few days so I can stop watching out for the next pickpocket, scam artist, or robber.
We spend the next two days running errands, making trip reservations with CdG, getting fit for mountaineering boots, making numerous trips to the ATM to get sufficient cash to pay for the trip and our hotel, buying last minute things like gloves, batteries for the headlamps, snack food, and probiotics for my stomach which is still not back to normal. And of course nothing is as easy as you hope and everything takes twice as long. Then on Friday we switch hotels to Hostal San Blas just down the road from our hostal.  I had been misinformed about our current hotel's ability to store our bags - but it was too late to change the plans now.  Our guide will pick us up tomorrow morning at the Hostal San Blas. We spend the evening unpacking our backpacks and repacking them with just what we need for the mountain trip - everything else stays behind.

Gunfire in Quito

A girl screams, there is a commotion and it sounds like pounding on the doors or windows of the ground floor of our hostal. Then a gunshot. Was that really a gunshot. It couldn't be, could it? I am ripped out of sleep and run to our window, tripping and falling as I get there. Its about midnight and John is still fast asleep, earplugs providing a blanket of silence. I look out the window and something is terribly wrong. The owner of our hostal is outside yelling, the neighbors are in their windows, then the owner's wife comes out also screaming about a robber and police ... It is obvious my spanish is completely inadequate as I can't make out anything she is saying. But I can see the fear in her face. A police car goes by and they run after it but is doesn't stop. There is more screaming. I go to our door debating if I should go downstairs. I open the door and immediately close it and lock it again. John - I push him, wake up, something is happening. He mumbles but is unmoved. The confusion goes on for a while before the police arrive and then an ambulance. I see a westerner walk to the ambulance, his arm bandaged - was he shot? In the morning we hear that he and his girlfriend had just arrived from the airport. Apparently a car followed the cab and when they got out to pay the cab, the robbers attacked trying to get their bags. The guy fought back, and the commotion started. Some thought the cab driver was involved - a setup so to speak. The Australian-Kiwi couple we met were looking out from their balcony and saw the guy covering his girlfriend with his body and still holding onto his bag. But then there was a gun and it was pointed up to balcony. One shot went off. Luckily no one was shot. As the story continues to unfold the next day we also find out that another guest is a doctor and he was there to assist the westerner who sounds like he was cut with a broken bottle while attempted to keep his bag. Later we hear that the couple stayed at the hospital that night but then went on with their trip to the Galapagos. In the morning all I am thinking is that it is time to get the hell out of Quito. But as the sun comes up we recall that shootings happen in LA too.  In fact there was a shoting in the park near our house a short time before we left town.. It can happen, and does happen, in any big city. But my fear of crime in Quito has been steadily growing and this is the icing on the cake.  First its the fact that everyone is always warning you of the crime, there are postings in the hotels, and storekeepers give warnings.  Then its that the fact that just about everyone we met has been a victim of crime - the mustard spraying trick where then some businessman or kind women offers to help you clean up as your bags are snatched, sometimes a knife is involved, other times its just a snatch and grab.  Theft on the buses, your things disappear out of your bag practically in front of your eyes.  And the list goes on.  Yes, this random gunshot was too close for comfort and even though I must admit I still like the city in the daytime; we won't be out after dark anymore. .

Making a Plan - Volcanos and Mountains of Ecuador

We've spent the last couple of days trying to plan out a rough itinerary which includes a few days of acclimatization, climbing Cotopaxi, a mountain bike ride, possibly a trip to the Galapos Islands, maybe the Mama Negra festival in Lacutanga, and the list goes on. Of course the fact that my stomach is still giving me problems is not helping matters. After almost committing to a 4 day Galapos boat trip - I get cold feet and decide I don't want to risk getting so sea sick that I need a few days after to recoup - plus it would mean losing the benefit of having already been at 2800 meters for several days.

We head into New Town (backpack area Mariscal Sucre) to see what info we can get on the trek to Cotopaxi and the mountain bike rides. You can bike down Cotopaxi - that could be fun. The trek doesn't take that long, its the acclimatization that could. We found one company that seemed quite good. They had their own hostal out by the mountains and did a 5 day trip that included several other peaks to help acclimate. Only problem was when I check them online they had received several bad reviews about the hostal. That got me thinking and looking a little more closely at what was offerred, what we were likely to get and what we wanted. Most important to us was the qualifications of the guide. Cotopaxi is at 5800 or 19,300 feet above sea level and it requires mountaineering or use of ropes, ice axe and crampons - something we have never done. The company we had met with said their guides were professional and were bilingual but that only the guide for Cotopaxi was certified. The reviews questioned the bilingual qualification and I didn't like the idea that we would get a different guide for the big day. So off to the South American Explorers Club to get more beta.

The SAE is essentially a climber's resource. They have books of trip reports, info on tour companies, etc. There we found a write up on Compania de Guias which was also mentioned in Lonely Planet. Compania de Guias is essentially a company owner-operated of very experienced guides.  The key selling point was the emphasis on the qualifications - all with no less than 10 years experience and all  certified. We walked over to their office - not as glitzy as the other company and not on the main drag - but we were impressed and decided to do their 5 day trip. But first we will do our own acclimitazing climb up local Volcan Pichincha.

Birthdays and Cyclopaseo in Quito

Every other Sunday many of the streets in Old Town Quito and Ave de Amazonas, running from the Old Town through Mariscal Sucre (New Town) andout past the Airport some 40k, are closed to cars and open to bicycles, rollerblades, walkers, or any other non motorized means of exercise.  Since we joined the Cyclovia in Bogota we figured we should check this one out too.  It was to be my birthday event! Unfortunately I had come down with a splitting headache all night, and some stomach thing on top of that so it was a slow morning and we didn’t make it to the ride until 1 p.m.  We found some so-called bicycles in the park from a older lady.  No info taken, no passport, just bring it back by 6 p.m.  It didn't take long to figure out her trusting nature as these were not the type of bikes you would want to have to ride everyday.  Mine, notwithstanding the appearance of gears - was essentially fixed.  Unfortunately it was set at a very very easy gear.  So with a little twist of a knife we adjusted the derailer and put it in the middle ring.  Still fixed, but at least I'm not spinning like crazy.  We must have missed the crowd as there was little action on the Cyclopaseo.  But even still every so often you would run upon a water tent or a mechanic tent which were set up along the way  - almost like it was a race or charity event.  Again we are wondering how to get this sort of thing started in Los Angeles.
Well my energy was not up to much of a ride and a few hours later we head back to the Hostel.  We had moved to the Chicago Hostel upon returning from Otavalo.  Its on the border of Old Town facing the Basilica. It has a great roof top area with stunning views and that is where breakfast is served.  We were able to score the double supreme room which means cable tv,  bath, a small balcony and wifi in the room (sort of) all for only a few dollars more than the normal room.  I am thankful as I am still not feeling so good and its nice to just veg-out in front of the black box and relax.

Otavalo - Home to the World Famous Craft Market

Otavalo is famous for its giant Saturday market.  Although I expect it to be a big tourist trap we decide to make the trip. Since everyone around here, from hotel staff to the shoe repair guy we talked to about fixing our Chacos sandals (which are starting to show a lot of wear) urgently warn us to be careful on the local buses as the pickpockets and robbers (ladrons) are numerous, don’t let you bag out of your sight, watch for suspicious people, etc. we decided to take a taxi to the main bus station to catch the long distance bus - really only 2 hours. Of course what they didn’t warn us about was the taxi drivers who have rigged meters which come out at twice what the fair should be.  Of course, notwithstanding our arguing with the guy since we knew what the fare should be having come from the bus station a few days ago, he just kept pointing at his meter -- and we felt stuck.  We paid him, and later regretted not getting his license number to report him. 

We booked a room at the Hotel Riveria-Sucre which turned out to be a great little place with hardwood floors and a beautiful internal courtyard.  We arrived late in the afternoon and strolled around town   It was nice to  get out of the big city after spending several days in Bogota and then Quito. This is the main church near Plaza Bolivar.  A service was in process and music echoed out of the glowing walls - quite enchanting. 

The animal market started at 5 a.m   As much as it would have been interesting to get there early to  watch the animals arrive, I just couldn’t get up that early  We made our way over closer to 8 a.m. and there was still plenty of action - this was definitely not a tourist attraction, after all, why would a tourist buy a pig or chicken.  (Of course that's not to say that there were not plenty of tourists mulling around, cameras in hand.)

Hundreds of traditionally dressed indigenous people were there either  to buy or sell cows, pigs, chickens, cats, dogs, guinea pigs, baby chicks,  some of which were in crates or cages, but most of which were just corralled by the owners.

On the way to the market this little girl was trying to help corral the baby chicks.

As we entered the market, women and children were walking out carrying chickens, pigs or goats, some carried by their legs upside down, others cradled in their arms - all probably headed to the dinner table.  Once again I am frustrated by the unbelievable photo opportunities which I cannot capture with my little camera and my inability to just stick my camera out and snap pictures of the beautiful people. I asked a couple of women if I could take their picture - they laughed and asked for money.  Sorry, I might buy something you are selling but not a photo.  I find those people with big zoom cameras who have no problem just sticking it in someone’s face as if they are zoo animals offensive and I am embarrassed  by their actions as westerns tend to be grouped together.

Of course, on the other hand, I admit I am envious of the photos they take home.  I would have loved to captured the smiling faces of the beautiful young women dressed in either long black skirts or colorful full bodied skirts, white embroidered blouses, jet black hair pulled back and wrapped with a woven ribbon or akcha chumbi (one of which I bought from a woman at the animal market who told me she had a friend in Colorado) and some with a traditional felt hat.

Or the older generation, the men with their dark felt hats and ponchos, and deep lines of history engraved in their olive faces.  In Peru many years ago we were a bit disappointed by the fact that most of the people dressed in indigenous clothing had done so in order to charge tourists for pictures.  Here, the traditional roots are strong.  These people dress this way for themselves.  It is their culture and they are holding onto it  fast and hard.

Here's just a couple more pics from the market.

Cats, chicks, dogs and ducks.  One big happy family waiting for new homes.  I like to think the cats and dogs will be pets .. but you never know...

What most people come to Otavalo for is the Saturday Craft Market is huge - it starts at the Poncho Plaza which is a permanent crafts market with ponchos, ponchos, ponchos as well as blankets, crafts, jewelry etc, and spreads several blocks out into the streets of the town. This is definitely set up to attract tourists and the tour buses roll in about 10 a.m. with lines of westerns decorated with big lense cameras. Luckily we had an hour or so before the bus loads arrived where we wandered the streets, checking out the crafts and watching the people.  I had planned on getting a poncho but turned out they were too heavy and I did not want to carry it for the next several months.  I did get a traditional coral bead bracelet and a handbag though.

Lunch was the next thing on the list and we decided to try some traditional roasted pig.  We had seen this guy proudly displayed in front of a little tiny restaurant while wandering through the crafts.

Although it is a bit sad - tomato stuffed in his mouth and all, but man he was YUMMY!

Churches, Plazas, and a Tank with a Water Canon

Today we play full-fledged tourists sin the mega camera with awesome zoom lens, which according to the constant warnings about thieves who will snatch your camera from your hands may actually be a good thing. I find myself constantly looking over my shoulder, trying to remain aware of my surroundings.  It forces quick photo taking, then stash the camera in my inner coat pocket.

But as we head to the Plaza de Independencia aka the Grand Plaza to start our walking tour of the Old Town of Quito we hear lots of cheering and as we enter to the square to take pictures of the park and the surrounding buildings,  we become aware that what at first we thought might be a festival is in fact some sort of demonstration.  One side of the square is occupied by the Palacio del Gobierna (or government building).

While John has started videoing the activities in the park, I take note of the growing number of policemen (and women) in full riot gear, some with gas masks, tear gas and protective gear.  Of course they are all carrying rifles and the plexiglass shields to  push the crowd back.

As I turn to cross the street I am staring straight on with a tank, with what appears to be a high powered water canon on the top, as it rolls up the street and stops not to far from where John is standing.   We seem to have timed our visit to the parque as the demonstration is gearing up.  Yeah, we know … its not wise to hang around demonstrations in third world countries where anything could happen, but nothing attracts a crowd like a crowd and we stick around awhile to see what develops.  It remains fairly controlled, a portion of the group carrying UNE banners (a teachers group) start a procession down the street, this first group is older and doesn’t look like they are intending to start trouble   The next group to head down the street looks like a student group, although a bit rowdier they also seem in control.  That leaves a large group of younger folks just hanging around starring down the police.  The chanting  has stopped and it seems that the crowd is now just itching for trouble.  The police seem to be a little more anxious and are really watching the crowd now, gone are the idle conversations that were taking place during the rally.  But in time things dissipate, party is over and we decide to head onto the next site. Later we find out the demonstration is by the teachers who do not like the governments new proposal of standardized testing of the teachers skills.  In the days to come more protests will be stages, streets closed, etc.  No one likes to have their qualifications questioned - although from what we understand currently there is no standard measurement of what qualifies the teaches in Ecuador.

Next stop - Plaza and  Monastery of San Francisco  We had visited this plaza our first night in town.  It is a huge square surrounded by colonial buildings  The Monastery is the city’s largest colonial building and the oldest.  On the first level of the Monastery there are a bunch of artisan shops, actually its one shop showcasing different artists work through a  maze of small rooms and narrow passage-ways. As we walked through we felt a bit like we were in a dungeon - a massive deathtrap should a terremoto (earthquake) hit.
Next we visited the Monasterio de Carmen Alto - another fully functioning convent where the nuns sell a variety of products, like lotions, rose water and homemade wine.  You don’t actually see the nuns.  There was a small rolling window that products could be handing through - if what you wanted wasn’t in the small display.  I bought a small bottle of lotion - but must admit - it didn’t smell so good.

7 tons of gold!  That’s how much  gold was used to guild the ceilings, walls and alter of La Compania de Jesus Church. The glow was blinding.  Construction of this church started in 1605 and took 163 years. (This pic is one of a postcard as they don't let you take photos inside.) One wonders how so much money can be spent on decorating a church when the majority of people are struggling to find food and shelter.

Final stop - the gothic Basilica del Voto National. This was the furthest out of the center of  the Old Town and of course it had started to rain but we decided to still head that way.   Our guidebook called the climb up the basilica’s tower the “deadliest view” of the city.

We started up the stairs and then saw the wood bridge across the main roof of the church.  It wasn’t really the rickety planks the books spoke of, but it was spooky enough as the walkway teetered over the arches of the ceiling.  At the end of the walkway there was a ladder straight up.

From that landing you went around part of the tower to 2 more sets of stairs.  My heart was pounding.  Thankfully the rain had stopped.  Again, I am reminded that I am afraid of heights - and I really like my rope and equipment when climbing.  Just anticipating the way down  my palms start to sweat.

But once at the top - the view is spectacular.  On the way down I make John go first so if I look behind me I don’t see the empty space down to the ground.  As he points out, if I fall I will take him down with me.  All for one and one for all!

 Final view on the way back down.  That's the tower we went up.