Today we play full-fledged tourists sin the mega camera with awesome zoom lens, which according to the constant warnings about thieves who will snatch your camera from your hands may actually be a good thing. I find myself constantly looking over my shoulder, trying to remain aware of my surroundings. It forces quick photo taking, then stash the camera in my inner coat pocket.
But as we head to the Plaza de Independencia aka the Grand Plaza to start our walking tour of the Old Town of Quito we hear lots of cheering and as we enter to the square to take pictures of the park and the surrounding buildings, we become aware that what at first we thought might be a festival is in fact some sort of demonstration. One side of the square is occupied by the Palacio del Gobierna (or government building).
While John has started videoing the activities in the park, I take note of the growing number of policemen (and women) in full riot gear, some with gas masks, tear gas and protective gear. Of course they are all carrying rifles and the plexiglass shields to push the crowd back.
As I turn to cross the street I am staring straight on with a tank, with what appears to be a high powered water canon on the top, as it rolls up the street and stops not to far from where John is standing. We seem to have timed our visit to the parque as the demonstration is gearing up. Yeah, we know … its not wise to hang around demonstrations in third world countries where anything could happen, but nothing attracts a crowd like a crowd and we stick around awhile to see what develops. It remains fairly controlled, a portion of the group carrying UNE banners (a teachers group) start a procession down the street, this first group is older and doesn’t look like they are intending to start trouble The next group to head down the street looks like a student group, although a bit rowdier they also seem in control. That leaves a large group of younger folks just hanging around starring down the police. The chanting has stopped and it seems that the crowd is now just itching for trouble. The police seem to be a little more anxious and are really watching the crowd now, gone are the idle conversations that were taking place during the rally. But in time things dissipate, party is over and we decide to head onto the next site. Later we find out the demonstration is by the teachers who do not like the governments new proposal of standardized testing of the teachers skills. In the days to come more protests will be stages, streets closed, etc. No one likes to have their qualifications questioned - although from what we understand currently there is no standard measurement of what qualifies the teaches in Ecuador.
Next stop - Plaza and Monastery of San Francisco We had visited this plaza our first night in town. It is a huge square surrounded by colonial buildings The Monastery is the city’s largest colonial building and the oldest. On the first level of the Monastery there are a bunch of artisan shops, actually its one shop showcasing different artists work through a maze of small rooms and narrow passage-ways. As we walked through we felt a bit like we were in a dungeon - a massive deathtrap should a terremoto (earthquake) hit.
Next we visited the Monasterio de Carmen Alto - another fully functioning convent where the nuns sell a variety of products, like lotions, rose water and homemade wine. You don’t actually see the nuns. There was a small rolling window that products could be handing through - if what you wanted wasn’t in the small display. I bought a small bottle of lotion - but must admit - it didn’t smell so good.
7 tons of gold! That’s how much gold was used to guild the ceilings, walls and alter of La Compania de Jesus Church. The glow was blinding. Construction of this church started in 1605 and took 163 years. (This pic is one of a postcard as they don't let you take photos inside.) One wonders how so much money can be spent on decorating a church when the majority of people are struggling to find food and shelter.
Final stop - the gothic Basilica del Voto National. This was the furthest out of the center of the Old Town and of course it had started to rain but we decided to still head that way. Our guidebook called the climb up the basilica’s tower the “deadliest view” of the city.
We started up the stairs and then saw the wood bridge across the main roof of the church. It wasn’t really the rickety planks the books spoke of, but it was spooky enough as the walkway teetered over the arches of the ceiling. At the end of the walkway there was a ladder straight up.
From that landing you went around part of the tower to 2 more sets of stairs. My heart was pounding. Thankfully the rain had stopped. Again, I am reminded that I am afraid of heights - and I really like my rope and equipment when climbing. Just anticipating the way down my palms start to sweat.
But once at the top - the view is spectacular. On the way down I make John go first so if I look behind me I don’t see the empty space down to the ground. As he points out, if I fall I will take him down with me. All for one and one for all!
Final view on the way back down. That's the tower we went up.
