Several days ago we started evaluating how much time to spend in Colombia and how we would move south. Although we have really enjoyed Colombia and would have like to spend more time here we decided we needed to keep moving or else we would run into issues with the weather when we hit Peru and the mountains. So, rather than taking a 23 hour bus south to the border - which sounded like hell on wheels - we booked a flight to Pasto a town about 2 hours from the Colombian-Ecuador border. We opted against going straight to Quito in order to avoid various international airport taxes Our flight was uneventful other than a bumpy landing with a lead foot pilot supplying a few jolts of braking rather then a gradual stop.
From the airport we took a collectivo taxi to the Koala Inn in the center of town. As we traveled the 30 + kilometers to Pasto we figured we could have just taken a collectivo to the frontier town of Ipales. Oh well, we'll be heading there in the morning. The Koala Inn resides in a very old building with an interior atrium. The hotel starts on the second floor and goes up several more floors. Our room is huge, with big windows facing the street - downside - they are thin, thin, thin and the traffic continues until about 11, takes a short break before the morning buses start up - honking every block or so as a way of finding out if anyone on the streets is looking for a bus or taxi. again at the crack of dawn.
That evening we roam the town for a couple hours. There is an interesting town center with the obligatory church, actually there are several churches in town. The square is surrounded by shops and there is a very large fairly flat area with what appears to us to be perfect skateboard ramps artistically placed at all four corners. Not sure why that came to mind as neither of us are skateboarders, but visually you could just see the jibs and ramps waiting for boarder to roll up. After a fairly expensive dinner (11,000 peso each which is really only about 6 dollars but considering our hotel cost 14 dollars this seemed disproportionately high) we head back to our room where we were surprised to discover that the little tv actually picked up about 100 cable channels. Sucked in by the evil black box, we watched 2 1/2 movies before going cold turkey and hitting the power button -calling it a night..
In the morning we get a quick breakfast at the local panderia (bakery) and then we start with the sequence of public transport needed to cross the border to Ecuador. First its the collectivo bus from town center to the bus terminal (1000pesos cada persona). Then another collectivo to Ipales (7000 pesos cp) We thought this might be a bus as it could take 2 hours but we find ourselves climbing into the back seat of a minivan crammed with people (kids ride free - but that means they sit on laps. If you are lucky its not your lap!). The driver drops us off at the Colombia immigration office where we get in line to get stamped out. Unfortunately we end up behind 2 nationals having problems with their documents. Apparently people who cross the border regularly seem to have a more difficult time with the formalities. When we get to the window it is a simple process for us. Stamp in hand we simply walk across the street and across the bridge to the Ecuador immigration. Both of these stops are gratis - no exit tax, no visa. Nice.
Then its back into another shuttle van - crammed to the gills to the bus terminal in Tulcan (1600 pessos cp - interesting as the Ecuadorian currency is actually US Dollars - its own controversial topic). We aren't even out of the van and people are grabbing for our bags. "Perdon, es mio, no necesito ayudar, es mio ....". They only slightly back off as a handful of guys are yelling out "Quito Quito". They are all anxious for your business. We decide not to jump on the first one leaving as we need some food.
Fifteen minutes later we are in a big bus con bano (with a bathroom) and back on the road for the 5 hour ride to Quito. The bus is fairly empty. Its amazing they can make any money this way. Its a directivo bus, but directivo does not really translate to direct. They stop often, at bus stations and just about anywhere if flagged down by someone heading to Quito. Of course they also stop at roadside tiendas (stores) where people board the bus selling all kinds of things to eat. Our favorite was this guy selling hambergesas -- they looked pretty good but who knows how long they have been on that tray or how many bus aisles they have been down.
Our first impressions of Ecuador is that it is definitely a poorer country than Colombia at least comparing border towns. Colombia's countryside was stunning - lush forests, then undulating hillsides, with a backdrop of looming volcanoes, and three Andean mountain ranges - the Cordillera Occidental, Cordillera Central and cordillera Oriental. Ecuador on the hand, based on this first glance is more barren and dry. We'll see how the topography changes as we head south.
