We spent another day in Taganga before heading back to Santa Marta where we caught a night bus to Bucaramanga - 9 hours. This was our first freezing cold bus ride. We had heard constant stories about the icy buses who cranked the AC without regard for the frost forming on the passengers but until this ride we had had more problems with lack of AC rather than too much. Luckily forewarned I have an extra jacket and my sarong which acts as a blanket but the cold makes it too hard to sleep and it is a restless night. We change buses in Bucaramanga for a bus to San Gil - a small town trying to make its mark as the adventure capital of Colombia.
River rafting, abseiling, parapenting, horseback riding - these are just a few of the options to choose from, but first things first - let's find a place to put these bags down. The main road is fully under construction which makes looking for a hostal a little nerve racking as we try to maneuver amongst the locals scurrying down the wooden planks and narrow dirt path left as a sidewalk with out knocking one of them into the ditch where the road should be with out backpacks. We head up a long steep hill in search of the Hostal Macondo. Arghh - full!
So back down the hill to the main square where we find a room at the Hotel Mansion del Parque, a huge old colonial mansion where we are given an unbelievably large room with shutter windows opening to chaotic street below.
I know I will be hating the noise tonight - buses, taxis, people, cops directing traffic by the blow of a whistle - but I love the vantage point of looking out into the street and the parque and just watching everyone go about their daily lives.
The town is nestled into the hills, a fact that become evident when walking around town. Several of the streets at one end of town dead end into walkways reminiscent of San Francisco. Some are landscaped with flowering plants and trees, others with murals, others are simply steps. But from the top you get an amazing view of the city skyline, red rooftops and the round doomed roof of the Cathedral taking center stage.
Breathtaking Parque Central is lined with cafes but we can't seem to find anywhere to eat. Cafe means one thing is served - cafe! Finally have we actually found a town with an appreciation of a fine cup of a strongly brewed coffee? Problem is that we normally like some breakfast with our coffee.
Cafeteria Donde Betty directly diagonally across the park from our hotel turns out to be our favorite place. Coffee, eggs and arepas (a corn based flat bread/tortilla with a similar texture and taste of masa used for mexican tamales but with a little cheese and butter). CDB is a small place only 4 tables squashed into what really looks like a mini convenience store. Coffee is the big seller - all varieties, expresso, latte, negro, americano. Interestingly what you get depends on who is making it. Later in the day beer becomes the big seller. People gather at every available seat in all the local cafes and drinking beers which collect on the table like trophies until the last person in the group leaves.
Right across the street are two local bars - actually they are stores with metal bars where you order your drinks, predominantly beer, and then you hang out in front of the store or wander to a bench in the park.
On a weekend night the park is packed with people, couples cuddling on the benches and friends gathering around drinking, laughing, and just hanging out. We mingle - even get in a little cuddling on a park bench ... when Colombia do as the Colombians.
