D r e a m B i g - - L i v e L a r g e

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Cloud Forests, Coffee Farms & Casadas

Costa Rica is a visually beautiful country with more than 14% of its land falling within national park boundaries and even more land under conservation bringing the protected land estimates to 25%. There are lush jungles and cloud forests, filled with a 4 breeds of monkeys, 220 reptiles, 160 amphibians, 35,000 species of insects, 3,000 types of butterflies, armadillos, anteaters, and more; rugged and scenic white and black sand beaches line the coast while volcanoes form the spine of the country.



Since Mom was only in town for 6 days we wanted to make sure she saw more than the beaches so we decided to head inland to show her some other parts of the country. The drive alone is spectacular, albeit long and bumpy. The Nicoyo Peninsula is actually the driest part of Costa Rica, as you travel inland it gets more lush. We take the Interamerican Hwy and turn off for Juntas which we thought was the quickest way. Well maybe according to the map, but we later realize that this is part of the road labeled as the worst road in Costa Rica as it turns to a rough, bumpy, windy dirt road which seems to last for eternity - although according to the map it was only 30km. Coffee farms cover the hillsides here like rice fields did in Bali. I am always baffled when the places that grow such good coffee don’t really drink it or serve it locally - rather the norm here is instant powder - Nescafe style.



We decide to stay in the neighboring town of Santa Elena. After checking out a few places we decide on the Vistas del Golfo. Its family run and I get to practice my Spanish as not all the staff speaks English. We rent a little loft apartment with a large balcony which apparently has spectacular views of the valley down to the Golfo de Nicoya. Unfortunately, true to its name “cloud forest“ it is pretty socked in even first thing in the morning. It is pouring outside so we decide to just walk to the soda next door for dinner. La Amistead served up delicious casados (typical meals including pollo, pescado or carne, con arroz, refrioles, plantans, y ensalada) and cold cerveza.



Costa Rica is best known for eco-tourism, after all with the bountiful environment it seems a natural fit. However, somehow this eco-tourism label has been liberally used to promote numerous zipline parks which really should be labeled amusement parks rather than ecotours Yes it is true that they are located in beautiful cloud forests, and could provide amazing views from high above the ground But lets face it, speeding across a zipline with a group of 15 or more others lined up waiting for their turn, everyone yelping and hollering, egging each other on to do the next one upside down, is a far cry from an ecotour. Certainly if I was a monkey I would relocate my family to a more pristine local where there were less daily visitors. Interestingly even the backpackers traveling on tight budgets manage to come up with the $30 plus needed for the adrenaline rush. Don’t get me wrong, I know it can be fun, I have done the zipline tour in Mexico, but I saw very little of the jungle while I whizzed through the trees from one landing post to the next.

So in hopes of a more peaceful experience we decide to visit the Reserva Santa.Elena which is right next door to the Reserva Monteverde but receives far less tourist and claims to have a healthy population of monkeys, sloths, birds and other animals. Since John is itching to see an elusive sloth we figure the quieter reserva gives us better potential. Mom and I had rented big rubber boots from the hotel as they said it would be very muddy and armed with our boots, raincoat and water bottles we set off for an adventure. There are over 12km of trails and we, of course, chose the longest, at the recommendation of the park ranger. It ends up taking us 3 hours on a jungle trail, roots, rocks and steps included. Unfortunately we strike out when it comes to spotting a sloth, no monkeys either, but we did see some huge centipedes, this very big pincher bug, various birds, crabs, and other insects.
Oh and of course, the forest itself is stunning, with huge leaves, hanging vines, moss covered trees an of course - the mist from the clouds.

Later that day, after lunch in town, and a rest, we visited the Ranario (Frog zoo) which has over 30 species of frogs, most of which are nocturnal so it turns out to be a benefit that the sun has already set Only draw back is that. you can only see them with the aid of a flashlight and a trusty guide who knows exactly where they are hiding in those glass cages.