As we arrive at the border crossing at Paso Canoas we are instructed to exit the bus to go through immigration. The process is straightforward. We get stamped out of Costa Rica and then walk down the path ...
and across the bridge to Panama.
But this looks like a big problem - the bridge has a huge gaping hole! Sure we can walk around it, but what about our bus! Hmm there seems to be a line of big trucks and buses waiting at the other side as well. Are we really going to wait until they repair the bridge - is there no alternative route? Apparently not.
We proceed to the immigration, a simple ticket counter that looks like we are buying bus tickets. Well what do you know we actually HAVE to buy bus tickets (although from another counter). Panama is requiring evidence of your departure in order to give you the visa for entry. Turns out an itinery to fly out from somewhere else at a later date is not sufficient, in fact it sounds like the only thing that works is a return bus ticket. Interestingly enough we later find out the bus company is a nationally run business - the supposed "exit" rule at this border point seems a good subsidy for the bus company. Not a big deal as the ticket was only $11 but it would have been easier to swallow if they just said it was a $22 ticket in the first place.
Time passed, the line of trucks waiting for the bridge grew. But miraculously after only an hour and a half the traffic started moving and we were reunited with our bus. Now the issue became would we make it in time for the last lancha (boat) to the islands. It was another hour to Changuinola where we caught a taxi to the dock - another 40 minutes.
But our taxi driver knew how to earn a tip - he called ahead and got them to hold the last lancha for the 8 of us coming from the bus. They waited and we crammed into the boat - definitely over safety capacity - for the 45 minute bumpy and wet ride to Bocas.
