Flying over Columbia it looks a little like California, rolling green hills and then the developments, sprawling suburbs, skyscrapers and the ocean below. I knew Cartagena was big but I was surprised by how big. In the last few days while attempting to find cheap airfare and some possible hostals I came across a lot of very expensive accommodations in Cartagena - including a Sofitel, Hilton and other chains. We had been warned that it was very touristy but figured it was worth the visit and a good place to start our trip into South America.
Cartagena has a reputation of being a romantic city. Its history lays a foundation for a storybook - starting with pirates and treasures. Founded in 1533, Cartagena served as a northern access point and perfect Spanish port where treasures taken from the indigenous people were stored until they could be loaded on ships for Spain. But its location was far from secret and thus became a prime pirate target, attracting even the infamous Francis Drake. To protect the city from the pirates the Spaniards enclosed the city with stone walls and elaborate forts. These walls remain today and add to the charm of the old city.
The ritzy part of Cartagena is located on the point, where wealthy Colombians vacation. Here you can find the normal assortment of chain hotels and expensive restaurants. We didn't plan on even visiting this end of town, instead, we catch a cab to the outer portion of the old walled city to the area called Getsemani which is a developing area - in the midst of tourism growth it has the majority of inexpensive hostals, restaurants, etc and is relatively safe.
The streets are narrow, and lined with vendors selling fruits and local foods. As in any area undergoing gentrification, you have a sparkling renovated building aside a crumbling facade. We head for a well-known hostal - Casa Vienna but no luck - full. We are glad we choose the afternoon flight rather than the cheaper night flight as we ended up spending the next hour or so looking for a place. Lots to choose from, at a variety of prices. We settle on the Hostal Real a couple blocks from the Casa Vienna. Private room with bath, tv, good fan, wifi, use of kitchen and courtyard for $22 a night. Unfortunately, it also comes with 2 yappy little dogs.
It's Sunday and the streets in the antique city are quiet with most shops and restaurants being closed. We are happy to have arrived on Sunday as I am sure the city will feel much different tomorrow. Narrow cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings in shades of orange, cranberry and the occasional vivid blue, accented with fushia bouganvillia - we walk the streets almost alone. The sights are reminiscent of Granada but a bigger area with tighter streets, more churches, museums, parques and plazas. Me gusta Cartagena! (I like Cartagena!)
We head to the outer wall of the old city out by the beach where families have gathered to fly kites, lots of kites. Its quite windy so there are lots of collisions, tangled strings and shredded kites, pero no problema - the crowd seems very relaxed and accustomed to the crowded skies.
