Boat Tour Anyone - When? Ahorita Por Supuesto

We had been con- templating doing one of the boat tours that everyone along the waterfront seemed to be organizing. But we figured we missed it for today as it was 9:30 already. As we passed the mini-market someone asked if we were interested. We asked for details - head to Dolphin Bay to watch the dolphins, then snorkeling at Crawl Caye (coral caye), stop to eat at a floating restaurant, hike to Red Frog Beach, and then snorkel at Hospital Point. Ok basically exactly what everyone was offering and at the same price. We are always hesitant to take organized tours as they can be so "disneyland-like". But we figured the only way to go snorkeling would be a tour or an expensive private boat rental. So "when does it leave?" We expect to hear the time for tomorrow. "Ahorita" or right now! The boat has spaces left and is about to leave. We look at each other - dumbfounded - well alright then I will run to hotel for my bathing suit as the guy runs to the dock to hold the boat. And so it goes - 10 minutes later we are on zipping across the water in a lancha filled to the gills with eye-poping tourists. We head into the thick mangroves and I am instantly relieved we did not take our own boat and try to navigate this area.

Our driver glides us into a narrow and shallow passage-way in the mangroves just big enough for the our boat. On the other side is Dolphin Bay. Living in Southern California we are not as gaga about dolphins since we have the luxury of seeing the magnificent creatures quite often. Once while surfing in San Diego I had the good fortune to be snaked by 2 dolphins playing in the surf as they literally caught the wave I was paddeling for. After the momentary scare and requisite scream (thinking "shark") I realize they are playful dolphins. Amazing! That unexpected real world natural interaction was far better than paying to enter a pool to swim with them.

Here, we were to soon find out, the boats took turns circling in the water which attracted the dolphins who liked to play in the wake caused by the boat. There were maybe a dozen dolphins and they chased the wake and each other. It was actually quite fun - although I was a bit worried that it was detrimental to the animals. I was somewhat consoled by the fact that they did not feed or touch them.

Then after a quick pit stop to order our lunch at the floating restaurant we were off to snorkel at Crawl Cay. With all the tours following the same itinery I thought it would be a madhouse of kicking flippers. But surprisingly each boat seemed to have its spot sufficiently far enough away from the next. John says the snorkeling was pretty good. I spent most of the time emptying water from the mask which was 2 sizes to big for me. Not to worry - I saw plenty of fish and coral only slightly more blurry as seen through the sloshing water in the mask. And front the boat we saw these huge colorful starfish.

Lunch was a multi-lingual affair - 2 Venezuelan women, 2 Italians one of which speaks Spanish and English, the other only Italian, and John and I. Conversation was being translated from Spanish to English to Italian and back to Italian. It was great. I only wish we had had more time.

Next stop - Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimiento. We enter from the south side of the island, pay our park entrance fee and walk along a wooden boardwalk across to the other side of the island and the beach - about 15 minutes. Along the path this young boy approached us with a perfect specimen of the red frog - tiny little things.

It was a beautiful setting with a windy, wild beach. But no sooner did we arrive and the rain joined us. We all clamored under the small awning of the only shelter still heavily engaged in conversation. But the guide tired of the rain and suggested we head back. Although the tour allowed for one more snorkel stop we unanimously decided to head back as the rain made snorkeling a lot less appealing.

After a full day of excitement we needed to take care of a few chores, pay some bills, check our accounts and a little money laundering to subsidize our trip... ha, ha, ha.

Boros del Toro - Quintessential Caribbean

Bocas del Toro located just 32km from the Costa Rican border consists of 6 forested islands and many smaller uninhabited islets. Isla Colon is the largest island and where most of the tourist action happens.

Its very stereotypical Caribbean - the colorfully painted wood buildings, red, yellow and green - rasta style, some built up on stilts over the water; the people are dark skinned with dark curly hair and every 10th person has some pot for sale (or at least it seems that way at first - turns out John has the look that attracts the drug peddlers - maybe its the funky facial hair, or those dark shades) and of course its hot -really hot- and humid.
No sooner do we disembark the lancha and a rasta man, long dreds, rasta hat and all, attaches to us telling us about different hotels. We had some ideas of where to go - after all the town is only a few blocks wide and long, but he followed us around just the same and offerred his suggestions. Many were already full as it was late in the day. We ended up at Hostal Las Brisas a fairly big hostal built over the water at the end of town. Our room was actually an outside annex - huge - with a/c, tv and private bath; but not too clean and although the hotel itself seemed fine this room seemed a bit vulnerable to easy break-ins. So in the morning we were on the move. This time to the Hostel Don Chichio a big 3 story hotel - $25 a night for a room in what felt like the attic due to the slanted roof. It came with a/c, tv, hot water and it was very secure and clean.

Our first day we just roamed around town - taking in the culture both local and tourist imposed. We found these children down one of the quieter streets just hanging out in their front yard.  They were more than happy to pose for a picture.

Later in the afternoon we took a lancha over to the closest island - Isla Carenero - a 5 minute ride if that. There is a hostal there called Acqua Lounge which had a large dock which had a large "pool" cut into it as well as a trampoline and some resident show-offs doing tricks. Nice chill place to hang out and we enjoy a few beers.

We decided to explore a little so we followed this path on the island that lead us through a shanty town of rundown shacks built on stilts and connected by planks and walkways - all just minutes from prime oceanfront. Very interesting. Apparently this island is a bit of a dump - literally. The name comes from "careening" which refers to leaning a boat on one side for cleaning or repairing. History has it that Christopher Colombus brought his boat here for careening and cleaning back in the 1500s while he recovered from a bellyache.

Here's another view from the Isle which the marketing folks would approve of.

Border Crossing to Panama - Bridge in Need of Repair

As we arrive at the border crossing at Paso Canoas we are instructed to exit the bus to go through immigration. The process is straightforward. We get stamped out of Costa Rica and then walk down the path ... 

and across the bridge to Panama.

But this looks like a big problem - the bridge has a huge gaping hole! Sure we can walk around it, but what about our bus! Hmm there seems to be a line of big trucks and buses waiting at the other side as well. Are we really going to wait until they repair the bridge - is there no alternative route? Apparently not.
We proceed to the immigration, a simple ticket counter that looks like we are buying bus tickets. Well what do you know we actually HAVE to buy bus tickets (although from another counter). Panama is requiring evidence of your departure in order to give you the visa for entry. Turns out an itinery to fly out from somewhere else at a later date is not sufficient, in fact it sounds like the only thing that works is a return bus ticket. Interestingly enough we later find out the bus company is a nationally run business - the supposed "exit" rule at this border point seems a good subsidy for the bus company. Not a big deal as the ticket was only $11 but it would have been easier to swallow if they just said it was a $22 ticket in the first place.

Time passed, the line of trucks waiting for the bridge grew. But miraculously after only an hour and a half the traffic started moving and we were reunited with our bus. Now the issue became would we make it in time for the last lancha (boat) to the islands. It was another hour to Changuinola where we caught a taxi to the dock - another 40 minutes.

But our taxi driver knew how to earn a tip - he called ahead and got them to hold the last lancha for the 8 of us coming from the bus. They waited and we crammed into the boat - definitely over safety capacity - for the 45 minute bumpy and wet ride to Bocas.

Lo Siento No Tiene Habitacion - San Jose, CR

That was essentially the phrase we heard over and over for what seemed like hours. Sorry we have no rooms. After a glorious 4 days of relaxing and surfing in Nosara and then 3 more days of the same back visiting friends in Tamarindo and surfing at the rivermouth with our trusted "magic carpet" (that board rocks-we fought over it each day and ended up having to take turns!),  it was time to move south to Panama.  Rather than drive back to Liberia and then take another bus to SJ we decide to pay the drop off fee and drive. Good thing since we arrive at 5 pm to find just about every hostal full to capacity. Apparently there was a big surf competition and everyone is on their way out of town. Just our luck. At least we are not on foot, backpacks in tow, for this scavenger hunt. John is crazed with the traffic and the fact that we have no idea where we are going. Driving in Costa Rica has been a breeze until now. We checked every place in our book and then just started stopping along the street. Finally we find a room at the Hotel Tiquicia, a hotel advertising hourly rates - this could be an interesting night. Its more than we would normally pay but Luis the manger is very helpful (obviously trained at a high end hotel), its clean, and breakfast is included. Now its off to return the car at the airport some 30 plus minutes away and hope the rental place will drive us back. Which they did-thank you!

In the morning we head to the bus station. Well really to a street corner near the bus station where we will catch the Bocatorenos bus - the only direct bus to Panama and the drop off spot for the islands of Bocas de Toro. Luckily we had found this spot and confirmed what time the bus would be by yesterday, a good thing since there is no schedule.
Anticipated time to the border is 3 1/2 hours. The route follows the PanAmerican Highway south through the mountainous center of Costa Rican first we climb, then we descend, of course all along a twisty mountain road. A slight bearing east and soon we are along the Carribean coast - beautiful beaches to the left of us and lush banana farms lining the road on the right. Had we had more time we would have stopped to explore some of these villages along the way - Puerto Viejo possibly - but we were bound for Panama.

Back for More - Surfing in Nosara, Costa Rica

We plan a quick overnight stop in Liberia at the Hotel Guanacaste where we arrange for a rental car with the same company we used last time (Poas). Of course it was a struggle to get the same rate, but eventually they conceded and we ended up with the exact same car - our little Daihatsu Terios (we had installed foam for surfboards on the roof rack which were still there). We are joined by a woman we met at our hotel who is headed to Nicoyo - no need for her to take a bus as we will drive right through the town on our way to Nosara.  She was a very interesting woman, originally from Venezuela but considered herself Italian and adopting many American ways after having lived in the states for a few years, especially the individuality concept (doing what makes you happy, individual thought and opinion rather than the collective or communal existence - whether family or government). it is always intriguing to hear how Americans and our customs are interpretted by people from other countries.  In this instance we certainly agreed with her interpretation.  

Then it was on to Nosara where I was going to look into some surf classes at a school that came highly recommended by a another very interesting young woman I met in Leon  (by the way - THANKS Carrie for the recommendation!). Innocent Surf School had a very professional way of teaching. They taught skills, did video analysis etc. - not just your ordinary surf school where pushing you to stand was the standard. The plan was to go out one day and if they were as good as recommended then maybe a few more lessons after that. 

We had only spent one day in Nosara last time we were in Costa Rica and that was at Playa Pelada. Nosara is generally more expensive than the other beach towns, exclusive is I think what they may prefer to say.  There is only a very small town, and a couple of blocks of tourist shops.  Most of the accommodations are nestled in the jungle found down various meandering dirt roads that you can easily get lost on.  After a lot of searching we found a room at the beautiful Kaya Sol.  We had the cheapest room in the place - only $25 a night with a kitchen but no bathroom.  The shared bathroom we were to find out was shared with the bar/restaurant and each morning there was a variety of empty beer bottles and other trash in the shower ... what were they doing in there?

But our room was spacious located right in front of a refreshing pool and the location could not be beat - a mere 3 minute walk on a jungle trail through a private reserve to the beach and the beachbreak right there!

One afternoon while lounging by the pool John caught this vibrant iguana as he was taking a dip in the pool - actually they were both taking a swim!  His diet must be based on some lush greenery as his coat was almost lime green!

Monday morning we hit the surf for a great morning session. That afternoon I decided to work on some skills before my class on Tuesday. John called it cramming for a test. My class was with Rue and just one other student. We were going to work on wave selection and placement - finding that sweet spot for take-off. We spent most of the lesson getting tips, better paddle efficiency, better turtle skills, looking behind while paddling, and paddling towards the sweet spot (otherwise known as heading right into harms way). There is a saying I am told "There are only 2 types of surfers the hunters and the hunted" - and we were to start hunting out waves! I only caught one wave but after Rue left us for his next class I stayed in the water and managed to take a few crashes - which meant I got into the steep section but just didn't manage the take-off.

Day 2 - video analysis sounds like it could be a great tool once you get beyond the embarrassment of all those bad little habits caught on film. There were three of us this time and we had 45 minutes in the water. Pressure was on as to get the most out of the session you need to catch as many waves as possible. So that meant no waiting the set out if on the inside - you just had to keep paddling, turtling, duck diving whatever it took to get back out there. Before I went out Rue had given me a brief instruction on proper stance for maximum control. Needless to say, it was not my ordinary stance. The session went well and we all got some great waves, and great tips on what we could have done better. Yeah, I know this pic is not me, but check out the perfect right!

That afternoon I went out to accomplish some tarea (homework). The waves were all jacked up. Peaking all over the place. Big swells, only 5 second intervals - essentially a big mess. But I managed to catch a couple of good rides and John caught them on video so we could see how I did. That evening the storm revealed itself in a downpour that lasted several hours. Have you ever slept in a room with a tin roof during a thunderstorm and pouring rain? Loud just doesn't adequately describe the experience.

Day 3 - my last lesson. Today we implement the tips from yesterday. Unfortunately the waves are quite small so its a little hard to judge what effect the new stance will have on steeper waves. But I catch lots of waves, on a smaller board than usual 7'10". And later in the session I trade boards with another student and caught some waves on a 6'8" the smallest board I have ever rode. Overall I cannot praise Innocent Surf School enough. They were fantastic! Not only did I figure out my bad form but I also managed to get out on a shorter board and get more comfortable hunting those waves. MUCHAS GRACIAS RUE AND INNOCENT SURF!

Change of Plans -- Hasta Luego Nicaragua y Hola Costa Rica

Our original plan had been to make our way north through Honduras and into El Salvador for a little more surfing before heading into Guatemala. I have heard so many wonderful things about Guatemala and really enjoyed what little I saw on my last trip a year ago. We had planned to spend several weeks there visiting Antigua, Lake Atitlan, scaling volcanoes, and checking out the ruins of Tikal. But the scales were tipping for heading south. On June 29 a military coup ousted President Zelaya from Honduras. One side asserts it was required by law as Zelaya was violating the law, the other side claims the military ouster was unconstitutional. Political problems seem to be running rampant in several Latin American countries. Any visit to El Salvador requires passage through Honduras and several times since the ouster we have heard that the borders have been randomly closed and road blocks are all over the place. Then there was the issue of a big swell in El Salvador - big out of our league big. And then the fact that we had stayed in Nicaragua much longer than we anticipated and were hoping to make it to South America, Bolivia that is before trekking becomes too unbearably cold. The result is an about face, local chicken bus to Managua where we anxiously took a taxi to the Tica Bus office from the bus station - paying double the going rate to be assured that it would be a directivo and only the 2 of us (no stops and no other passengers). It was extortion of an additional 5 dollars but better than the added risk of a taxi kidnapping and several ATM withdrawals. For added safety I insisted that my bag be in the back with me and John sat in the front. Although if they were bold enough they could still manage a kidnapping but we'd see it coming and they'd have a hard time getting in the car.
From there it was a 5 hour trip across the border and to Liberia,CR. The border crossing went smoothly and they didn't even ask us to show proof of departure from Costa Rica like they had when we left LAX originally bound for Costa Rica. As a consolation prize we are planning one final week of surfing and then onto to Panama. With any luck we will see Guatamala at the end of our trip.

Matagalpa - Countryside Spanish Lessons

Well I remained a bit spooked from the Million-dollar Taxi Ride story so Leon did not really get a fair shake. Many people pick Leon over Granada but my vote goes to the colorful streets of Granada. After a few days we decided to head to the countryside, the fields of coffee plantations were calling us as it had been awhile since we had a good cup of joe. We were off to immerse ourselves in more spanish in hopes of improving our communication skills.  Although I originally had planned to head to Estelli, a small town in the country know for good Spanish schools, the prompt email response from Matagalpa Spanish School (and the price - $160 each for school, room & full board) won me over and we hopped on a packed converted school bus for the 2 1/2 hour journey to the coffee capital of Nicaragua - Matagalpa.

Arriving late we spent the first night in a basic family run hostal on the main street aptly named Hotel Central. Dirt cheap and TV to boot! We watched a very, very bad, bootlegged version (you can see the tops of heads in the theater) of Transformers (2 or 3 - the newest one) on the local broadcast station.  Forget copyright laws here - that movie isn't even on dvd in the states and here you can watch it on the local pbs station!

Matagalpa is a bustling town, built in a small valley but still sprawling into the hillsides.  The town is not yet on the tourist trail as we see  few other foreigners. Its claim to fame is that it was the birthplace of Carlos Fonseca, a key player in the Sandanista revolutionary movement. 

We meet our teachers at the Matagalpa Spanish School housed with Matagalpa Tours (the only tour company I saw in town) - Wilcon for me and Luciana for John. Wilcon is a fantastic teacher, very organized, prepared each day with lots of handouts, exercises, conversation and of course tarea (homework). Each night I have to write an essay - in Spanish.

John is having an interesting time as Luciana speaks little English so he is being forced to really immerse. I hear them in the next class station next to mine and can't help but laugh occasionally.

We are also living with a family here - Dona Jeanette is the host of the family. Her adult sons, along with their wives and children also live in the house. Jeanette has been hosting students for many years (and it seems her family has lost the novelity of it and just go about their lives - not really a problem except it means their conversations are at normal speed and I can't understand a word!) A volunteer at a local non-profit is also living here. She has 8 years of Spanish instruction and admits that she too has a hard time understanding the dinner conversation. But speaking of dinner - or lunch or breakfast - the food is absolutely amazing and abundant. There is a woman that comes most days to help cook and clean and between her and Jeanette we are being plumped up with smiling faces. Each day we swear we will refrain and only eat a little rather than gorge ourselves - but it can't be helped. I think I gained 5 pounds in one week!

Latin American family life can be interesting. Meals of course play a big part in the family time.  But after dinner the family moves to the living room to watch the tele-novella of choice "Sin Senos No Hay Paraiso" (without heart there is no paradise). Think cheesy bad soap opera with drug runners, police in army fatigues and hotties that are either prostitutes or undercover cops - I couldn't figure it out ... Each night I felt compelled to watch even though I couldn't quite understand the dialogue. John gave up early and would sneak away to our bedroom to study. Then it was Wheel of Fortune in Spanish, sin Vanna White - now what would the Wheel be like in the US without Vanna?

The week goes by in a snap. It has rained just about every day we have been here so we haven't been doing much other than studying. Most days it clears just in time for us to make the walk to class. I wish we had planned another week here as I really enjoyed the classes but we are Managua bound where we will change buses and make our way back to Costa Rica for a week before continuing south.