Isle de Ometepe

It was one of the first sights we encountered when we entered Nicaragua a few weeks back,  two stunning volcanoes rising up out of Lago Nicaragua to form the island known as Isle de Ometepe.  After a week of surfing I developed some sort of ear infection .  I bought some gotas (ear drops) from the local pharmacy but have decided I probably should stay out of the ocean for a few days.  We are staying with Carlos and Jessica when we are in SJDS.  Its great to have a home base and it allows us to travel with just a small backpack, leaving our big backpacks behind in storage.  We decided to head out for a few days to explore Ometepe and hopefully hike one of the volcanoes.

Our new friends, Randy and Brenda are also heading to the Isle so we decide to catch a ferry over to the island together.   We had met Randy one day while getting our daily fix of caffeine at the Gato Negro Bookstore.  He is a a fellow Santa Monica resident now living in San Juan del Sur in a beautiful home called Casa del Soul which he built and operates as a guest house.  It’s a great place with a refreshing pool, tucked away a little bit out of town with a gorgeous view overlooking a  private beach.   Randy has someone drive us to San Jorge and we board the ferry for the hour ride  The winds are calm and it’s a smooth and easy journey.

From there we all head across the island.  John and I get off at Playa Santa Domingo located at the waist of the hourglass of the Isle between the two volcanoes and said to be the best beach on the island.  As far as beaches go its pretty drab. A flat ocean and a dark sand beach.  Considering how touristed the Isle is it is surprising that the facilities have remained fairly  basic.  The road here is essentially dirt with the occasional chicken crossing or cowboy ushering his herd along.

We take a place at the Hospedaje Buena Vista which has a row of rockers lining the rooms, as well as numerous hammocks and other areas  for lounging, which is a good thing as it is hot and there isn’t much to do other than kick back with a book - not a bad itinerary for a few days.

We found a little shack called Julia's serving good food down by the beach.  The wind was really blowing and we were surprised her grass walls didn't blow away. 









Here's the view from the comedor.

Playa Maderas: Crowded Surf and Private Beaches

Playa Maderas is surely in the running for one of the most spectacular surf beaches in Central America due to its fairly consistent waves assisted by regular offshore breezes created by the "lake-effect" of Lago Nicaragua. But, it has one downfall, regular shuttle-buses full of tourists (including us) wanting to surf arrive consistently throughout the day making it a very crowded break and beach. Before the first shuttle arrives around 10 a.m.the beach may be empty but if the tide is right the water is already lined with surfers, including a handfull of locals who can really rip. The waves here are steeper and at least when we arrive, bigger than we have encountered on this trip.

We made our first trip out to this break on Saturday - two big mistakes, it was low tide and duh .. it was Saturday and that meant even bigger crowds.  We only stayed a few hours as we had to get back to SJDS for my last few hours of spanish class.  But we decided to head back on Monday and spend a few days at a local hostal located about 15 minutes walk up the beach.



Playa Mathilda is absolutely beautiful - the first white sand beach we have encountered in Nicaragua. The water is refreshing and you don't have to walk half a mile before you get your shoulders wet.


 
We take a room at Matilida's this funky, colorful, beachfront hostel with friendly staff and room options running from a "doghouse" (think over-sized concrete doghouse or tent with tin roof and windows) for $4 or a private room for $25. We opted for the private room with a hammock on the porch just calling my name.






The place is a surfer's dream and just about everyone here is here with one thing in mind - surfing. Which is a good thing since there is nothing else out here - no bars or discos and food is served from some simply shacks - we loved Juanita's hut on the beach and ate almost every meal there. 
We did splurge one night for the local lobster - served from the most dilapidated shack you could image - but delicious just the same.

For the next 5 days we slipped into the same routine as all the other surfer's staying here (although many of them have been here a month or more). Its early morning surf sessions to catch the rising tide, then chill with a book for the afternoon until after low tide and head back for another session. At least once during your stay you need to make the obligatory walk over to Playa Majagual nicknamed "sunset beach" for.. you guessed it ... a beautiful sunset. Then its dinner and hang around and listen to it rain on our tin roof (which if you have never experienced it can be pretty loud when it rains all night!). 

The walk to the Maderas surf break is short but you need to time it with the tide as its very difficult to cross the rocky outcropping at high tide. We found this out one day one as the water was already crashing into the shoreline. We thought we had seen a map that showed a dirt road following the coastline so we bushwacked inland to where we saw a road. Sounds right ... right! An hour and a half later and after getting a ride from a local up the big hill we final make it to Maderas - John carrying his surfboard the whole way! Lesson learned - watch the tide.

Early in the week a swell had come in so I struggled with the surf to the point where some days I had to demote myself to the whitewater - an ego-crushing fate. John on the other hand took the challenge head-on,  engaged his testosterone,  paddled out and proceeded to get wiped out of the ocean and tossed in the air.  It was spectacular.  But he kept at it, and eventually got the hang of the drop in and caught a few waves.  For the most part of small point and shoot camera has been sufficient, but this was one of those times I wished we had a better zoom, both for the crashes and the successes.  By the end of our stay I too had faced the challenge, albeit the swell had died  down by then and the guys from Mathilda's gave me some tips on where the softest part of the wave was (i.e. easiest to catch). Why didn't they say so sooner!

San Juan Bautista Day - Fiesta, Bailando, Palo Lucio y Mas Toros

The crowd took a short break from the rambunctious partying last night to get a few hours of zzzs before the family festivities get under way today.  John and I have taken the day off from Spanish School so we can partake in the fun which starts with traditional dancers making their way around the town.  Following them is a small band playing traditional music and behind them is a group carrying a the San Juan Bautista statute. 

On the other side of town a similar procession is underway, with another crowd forming carrying another statute of San Juan Bautista..  Each group takes a different route around town, gathering more and more of  the town's people as they make their way around the perimeter of the town. 

At just the right moment, the statutes meet a few blocks from the central parque and the crowd ignites.  Cheering and dancing - all making their way to the park

Palo Lucio -  this very tall pole is slathered with black grease and planted firmly in the center of the street near the parque.  As part of the traditional festivities a muscular group of slightly buzzed Nicaraguans will attempt to make their way up this pole - no safety net provided.  If they reach the flag at the top, they get a cash prize.  But as we look on as they begin the effort I get the impression that the prize is not really the driving force here - it is the challenge. 

For hours they go at it, climbing a little further each time and trying to wipe off the excess grease with a rag if they are lucky, if not, with their bodies.  We couldn't fathom that they would really make it all the way to the top.  They were only getting about 4 guys high when we left at about 2 p.m.  But we later found out that they made it!  We were disappointed we didn't stick around to see that! 

But after lunch at our casa it was off to the rodeo with Carlos & Jessica.  Rather than bleacher seats we made our way into a very packed area along one of the fences.  It was a little hard to see as the fences were lined with people, especially when the bulls made a run in our direction.  After another delicious meal with our familia we head to the beach with Jessica where there is another stage set up for a big band.  We were anticipating dancing all night, or at least watching others show us a thing or two - but mother nature had other plans and we made a bee line for home when the rain started again.
HAPPY SAN JUAN BAUTISTA DAY!!

La Fiesta Begins

The town of San Juan del Sur has been brewing with anticipation of the big fiesta for San Juan Bautista day.  Fireworks have been going off around town for the last week or so and there have been continuous mini-celebrations throughout town.  But tonight is when the real party starts.

This afternoon we joined our familia - Carlos, Jessica, and Ximena, along with the rest of the town and gathered at the central parque to view the dancing of the Gigantes, which are these very very tall costumes which are worn by someone who then dances around town followed by this additional character which looks like a very big head on a very small body (a child wears this costume). 




It was explained to John that the significance of the gigantes was an analogy to their rising up against the Spanish control (represented by the brain-y-ack).  I think I heard the announcer say that the children participated in preparing the costumes and several elements, the fabrics, necklaces, etc had some cultural significance but of course that was me trying to understand his Spanish over the roar of the crowd.

The Gigantes danced up a storm with the help of the local band and later that evening a winner was declared.

The crowd then dispersed, heading back to their homes for dinner only to head back to the park again after dark for what was to be an all night affair.  Well, with a few breaks here and there for lost electricity and minor downpours.  There was a big stage set up in front of the church and first there were speeches, one of which was from the daughter of a local woman who had died from cancer recently - this year's festivities were in her honor, apparently she was a lifeforce of San Juan Bautista days and was loved by the community.  Then the Reina (queen) of the fiesta was crowned and the traditional dancing started.  Then came the rain.  Umbrellas went up and the dances continued for a short time before they threw in the towel - mother nature wins ... for now.

An hour or so later the rain stops and as quickly as the crowd had run for shelter, they reappeared and the party kicked into full gear  The pink Gigante took first place and the music started with a local band playing salsa music.  It wasn't much longer before the fireworks started - and what a display!  It started with what we call a finale - and just kept going.

Their finale included a man running  up and down the street in a costume like a horse - but it was covered with sparklers!    We left the streets at about 12:30 but we could hear the crowd making rounds around the town with the little 4 piece band, cheering and lighting off fireworks until the early hours of the morning.

Semana Dos - Clases de Espanol: politicos, beisbol y energia

We are feeling quite at home here in San Juan del Sur. The people are friendly and the streets are so colorful, with an occasional stray chick or two. We make our way to class everyday - a mere 2 block walk from our casa and just down the street from the main square. Our second week of classes continued as the first. John continued with building vocabulary and the structure of the present tense of verbs. I was making my way through a review of various verb tenses but spending most of the time working on comprehension and conversation. Mi maestro was very knowledgeable and we spent a good deal of time talking about politics, both in Nicaragua and the United States, the evolving but continuing energy problem, as well as beisbol - Nicaragua's number one pasttime. Can you believe it is not soccer? I was taken by surprise.


We have noticed that many Nicaraguans are not shy about telling you their opinion about the politics of their country as well as the politics of the United States with regard to how it relates to Central America. Of course each side has its own story, but it is no secret that the residents of SJDS are predominantly Sandinista supporters. The Sandinista National Liberation Front (or FSLN) is a socialist political party in Nicaragua. The party is named after Augusto César Sandino (prominently captured in a mural on a wall facing the central park and across from the church) who led the Nicaraguan resistance against the United States occupation of Nicaragua in 1930's only to be killed by the new regime a year later.

Here's a recap of the political history: Interestingly the U.S's interest in Nicaragua may have begun over the potential development of a canal through Lake Nicaragua and San Juan del Sur as a route through Central America (this was before the Panama Canal was constructed). The U.S. had fallen out of the negotiations, but wanted to prevent other countries from continuing as it had made progress with the plans for the Panama Canal. The U.S had taken a protectionist approach in order to prevent further development Communist leaning regimes. However the Sandinista rebels were determined to oust the U.S troops. Eventually in 1933 the last of the U.S. military left Nicaragua, but in their place was the new government - Guardia Nacional - under the rule of Anastasio Somoza and supported by the U.S. After Sandindo's death the Somoza family ruled until 1979 when the FSNL overthrew the dictatorship. More problems developed with the U.S. and when the U.S. delayed (and cut off) economic aid, Nic looked to other countries for support, like Cuba The U.S. continued efforts to oust the FSNL through direct funding ($19 Million to the CIA in 1981 to train counterrevolutionary army - the Contras). When the Dems took over the reins of the Congress, the funding went underground - later to be uncovered as the Iran-Contra Affair (secret arms sales to Iran with money funneled to aid the Contras) The FSNL held the Presidency from 1985 to 1990. Fast forward to 2006 when former President Daniel Ortega was re-elected President and the residents of SJDS were ecstatic.

And then of course there is the issue of electricity. Fully controlled by a company from Spain, electricity has always been an issue. It was sporadic and unreliable under the prior regime. President Ortega was able to renegotiate the deal and get more reliable electricity - sort of - and the people - at least initially - rejoiced. Today, electricity is unreliable. It is turned off without warning and just as indeterminately it goes back on. It is such a hot topic that an article in the local SJDS paper indicated that if any of the candidates for Reina (queen) of the Festival had spoken about change of the electric company as her hope for the future - she would have instantly won all the votes of the judges. Of course, these 16 year old girls stuck to typical beauty pageant etiquette and talked about world peace, etc.

Rodeo Repeat Performance

Since our rodeo experience was cut short on Saturday, we decided to return for a repeat performance on Sunday. We arrive at 4 and the show is already under way. We take our same seats as yesterday. The women selling beer and soda have taken us under their wings - yesterday they gave me a trash bag to protect my purse and camera - today they motion to the small overhead awning they have constructed - just in case of another downpour. We laugh and I show them that I am still carrying the trash bag - just in case.





The bull turnover is faster today. Some are more interesting than others and some more aggressive. There are a couple of possible injuries then a really bad one which I somehow managed to catch on film (or digital image). Someone sitting on the fence was unable to get out of the way of the bull's horn, which looked like it ripped through his stomach. The crowd pulled him to safety through the fence like a rag doll, then carried him around the outer fence to the clearing. There was mass panic, mixed with that infectious crowd action of wanting to see what happened. Although the town has an ambulance, it was not at the event. A pickup truck erratically backed into the area and they toss him in the back - no stretcher, no neck collar, no real medical attention en-route to the hospital. At this point it is unclear how bad it is, even if he is alive or dead - a hysterical women gets in the back with him and they speed off.

A few minutes later the show resumes. And a bit later the same pick up returns - now it has lost its ambulance function and is delivering beer! Ambulance turned delivery truck - only in Central America!

[We were a bit shaken by the gore of it all. Rodeo was lots of fun, until things got crazy and someone was unconscious and possibly seriously injured. Good news followed in a few days. One of the teachers at our school knew the guy who took the horn to the gut - luckily there was no actual puncture and he is ok - no doubt he will be back to the rodeo in no time.]

My First Rodeo, Nicaraguan Style

Fin de Semana (the weekend), at last! Our first week of classes are over. We have spent the last 5 days focused on learning spanish. No surfing, no partying, just classes and studying. Today we decide to take in some of the local entertainment and hit the Rodeo! To John's surprise, this is my very first rodeo ever. We make our way out of town towards the open field where the bull ring is set up. As we are walking down the street a handful of drunk guys start up a conversation with us, the typical, where are you from, how long have you been here, etc. They they tell us that they will be riding the bulls. This is getting interesting already. After some confusion about which price applied to which seats we buy some tickets for the basic bleacher seats -30 cordoba each - a blend of a little safety from both the bulls and the crowd sandwiched together in the free areas surrounding the ring, but still with plenty of local flavor - in fact notwithstanding all the tourists in the town there are very few gringos here.


Guys congregate inside the ring - yes, inside - drinking and cheering, or rather egging on the bulls. These are the adrenaline seats - more exciting to watch your friend get kicked from a bull up close and personal. And when the bull charges the crowd everyone scrambles up the fence. No rules, fences lined with people young and old. The event starts slow, the first bull is ok. The second comes out strong but then just stops and stares - rider still on. Nothing. He won't budge. The rider gets off and then the bull charges and up the fence goes the crowd.









There is lots of down time between bulls, providing lots of drinking time. Unfortunately the weather turns quickly and in no time a downpour starts. These kids put their umbrella up before the rain started - do they feel it in the air?










The crowd runs first for cover under the few vendor booths. But when it doesn't let up within a few minutes the entire crowd disperses. Show is over. All the bulls are put in the ring - staring at each other. The cowboys head home -the fun postponed until tomorrow - same bat channel, same bat time....








We make our way back to our casa where we enjoy a delicious dinner with Carlos, Jessica and some of their friends. Homemade chips and salsa - mi favorito, Que rico! And to top it off I am able to understand the majority of the conversation and even participate at times.